As a former Washingtonian, I'm always quick to bust the myth that our nation's capital is only about politics -- no matter who's in the White House. There's so much more to do than hit the free Smithsonian museums and monuments along the Mall. Consistently ranked among the country's fittest cities, D.C. is home to 694 parks -- in a city of 68 square miles. And its nearly 2,000-acre outdoor heart, Rock Creek Park (the oldest federally-managed urban park in the United States), is more than twice the size of New York City's Central Park. The miles of green space aren't hard to access, either: it's all Metro-accessible and easy to get to by hopping on a Capital Bikeshare e-bike (D.C. was the first city in North America to launch a modern bike-sharing program).
While summers are notoriously muggy and spring is crowded with cherry blossom-seeking tourists, the fall has always been my favorite time of year to get outside in the District, especially as the leaves start to turn fiery gold. I'm not alone; this October in D.C., a record-breaking 40,000 runners will take on the Marine Corps Marathon, aka the "People's Marathon," for its 50th anniversary.
On a recent visit to my once-hometown, I returned to my favorite parks and trails, and caught up with a few current locals to get their picks for what visitors shouldn't miss right now.
"Go in one side, and come out the other. Get lost a bit," recommends D.C. local Kay Rodriguez, founder of Outerly, a new social platform that matches like-minded people for walks around D.C. Her go-to escape in D.C. is Rock Creek Park, which has more than 32 miles of wooded trails and paths. By popular demand post-pandemic, there's now approximately five miles of twisty-turn roadway through the park that's car-free year-round. This is not only welcome by cyclists, but for visitors with disabilities who now have more access to the park.
Some of my most memorable evenings outside in D.C. were catching the sunset from a kayak, or stand-up paddleboard on the Potomac River, as I paddled past aglow landmarks, such as Watergate, the Kennedy Center, and the Lincoln Memorial and Washington Monument. Key Bridge Boathouse, a Georgetown institution under the Francis Scott Key Bridge, offers rentals, classes, and group paddling tours.
After kayaking around it for years while living in D.C., I finally stepped foot on this island in the middle of the Potomac River. You won't believe you are still in the city while strolling through 2.5 miles of nature trails in this 88.5-acre wooded sanctuary.
For the last 50 years on any Sunday afternoon with decent weather, you'll find a lively drum circle and dancing in Meridian Hill Park, aka Malcolm X Park. This longtime tradition began in the 1960s during the Civil Rights Movement, and now celebrates black liberation and defines this community park between Columbia Heights and Adams Morgan. "We end all our Outerly walks at Meridian Hill Park; it's a great spot to see the cross populations of this city," says Rodriguez.
Anacostia Riverwalk Trail, with its wide paved trail, frequently is used as a site for 5Ks. But the coolest thing here? An open-air roller-skating pavilion -- the only one in a National Parks Service site, which also offers free skate rentals in the summer.
Metropolitan Beer Trail links 12 of the city's most popular breweries and bars, all bikeable or walkable via the Metropolitan Branch Trail, which stretches from Union Station through the revitalized neighborhoods of NoMa, Eckington and Brookland. "Grab a Rowdy Rye Ale or Silent Neighbor Stout, two favorites, from Atlas Brew Works, a 100-percent solar powered brewery," recommends O'Shannon Burns, a D.C. local and sustainability consultant.
[Editor's Note: Atlas Brew Works announced after this issue went to print that it will close its location along the Metropolitan Beer Trail at the end of September. They have several other locations in the area, including at the Navy Yard in DC, and at the Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport airport.]
If a Top Chef is in town, Union Market is where you'd spot them. D.C.'s hippest food hall in NoMa features gourmet bites from more than 40 food and beverage spots. Standouts include: the two-story Levantine-themed La' Shukran bar-bistro-roof terrace; TaKorean's Korean style Bulgogi beef and tofu tacos; Fishwife's salmon cheesesteak; and Immigrant Food's Havana sandwich.
"The owners of D.C.'s Spanish cider company ANXO have opened a new restaurant called Poplar with chef and forager Iulian Fortu. Their weekly veggie-centric menu often features wild ingredients from around D.C., and their candied candy cap mushroom cheesecake was incredible and unlike anything I've ever had before," says Burns.
Rain or shine, Farmers Fishers & Bakers' patio on the Potomac River in Georgetown is open. This is one of the three DC locations of Founding Farmers, a farmer-owned restaurant group sourcing from local family farms, ranches and fisheries. Their scratch-made American classics include chicken and waffles and seafood jambalaya.
Forget oft-mentioned Ben's Chili Bowl -- and your plant-based diet -- and try D.C.'s iconic half-smoke, a spicy sausage meets hot dog dish, at local hot spot DCity Smokehouse. You can visit two locations in D.C.: one in Bloomingdale NW and the other in historic Anacostia SE.
Last fall I checked out Arlo Washington DC, one of the newest hotels in D.C. While the White House is only a 20-minute walk away, you won't see any sign of buttoned-up politics at this new Arlo outpost in the Judiciary Square area. There's a fresh, creative vibe here with Mindbender local art covering the elevators, rooftop yoga, soundbaths, live music, and affordable restaurants (and happy hours) created by one of D.C.'s most famous chefs, Pepe Moncayo.
"Eaton Workshop is more than a hotel -- they host local art exhibitions, vinyl DJ nights, wellness activities, and a coworking space where many local community organizations base their operations. Throughout the property there are nods to the many Black Americans who have shaped D.C.'s history and culture, and their bar Allegory is one of the best in the city," says Burns.
"[This] is hands-down one of my favorite community spaces in the city," says Rodriguez, who climbs and works out at the gym and uses the coworking space. "Not only is it friendly for climbers of all levels, but it's a great place to make friends, get some exercise, and push yourself," says Tyrhee Moore, the founder of Soul Trak Outdoors, a nonprofit bridging Black and Brown communities to nature. He hosts some of Soul Trak's meetups here. "It's been such a powerful space for both new and seasoned climbers to grow together. It's been more than a gym for us, it's a space for connection, community and pushing boundaries."
Pick up a paddle and a beer at Kraken Kourts & Skates, what Rodriguez calls a "social fitness center" with indoor pickleball, roller skating, and a bar. Indoor lawn games like cornhole, giant Jenga, and darts surround 14 pickleball courts.
When I was back in town, I got a day pass ($45) at Vida Fitness at The Yards, in D.C.'s Capital Waterfront neighborhood. I was blown away by all the amenities in the 30,000 square foot wellness and fitness club: steam rooms, saunas, full-service locker room, Peloton bikes, and an array of classes, from Sweatbox to heated yoga and Pilates. They offer cold plunge tubs at their Logan Circle location, too.